Read the previous post on my tour of Wasabi Growing in Okutama and join me here for an exclusive Interview with Wasabi Cultivator David Hulme!

Let’s learn about wasabi growing together!

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Interview with David Hulme

Rachel: You mentioned that you discovered a wasabi patch during one of your hikes in Okutama. What was the turning point or moment of inspiration for you to move to Okutama and grow your own wasabi patch?

David: At first we were not thinking seriously about growing wasabi, even though we had friends who were wasabi growers. Personally, I was ready to leave my city job and working remotely – writing and editing – in Okutama became a viable option.

Rachel: As a former journalist in downtown Tokyo turned now wasabi grower in Okutama, could you talk about your experience of the transition career-wise as well as personally? Was it difficult for you to adjust? What was the most challenging aspect?

David: Adjusting was easy. We had been here many times and preferred this area to the city. Also, we had friends in the area already. All our friends and neighbours have been very welcoming and generous.

The most challenging aspect for me is language. My Japanese is still weak.

Rachel: During the tour, you mentioned that most of the seedlings used in Okutama are from Shizuoka, but that many small Okutama wasabi growers encounter issues procuring enough seedlings as the larger farms tend to sell in large quantities, is that right? What is currently being done to address this?

David: That’s right. We have been talking about this with other growers for some time. In September we formed a new group called Okutama Shogun Wasabi Development in order to address the seedling problem. Some of us had collected seeds in the spring and we negotiated for space in a vinyl shed to sow them. More than a thousand little wasabi plants are thriving there now. It’s a start.

Rachel: How does Okutama’s wasabi industry compare to other regions in Japan?

David: I don’t have reliable comparative data. I do know that we don’t have the mass-production of other regions. Our biggest grower produces about 50,00 plants per year, compared to over 300,000 for Nagano-ken’s Daio farm alone.

Rachel: What is the most surprising thing you have learned or encountered since you started trying to grow your own wasabi?

David: One thing that surprised me is that growers overseas are so secretive and monopolistic. They are supplying a market in which demand is absolutely impossible to satisfy, so there is no need to exaggerate the difficulties of growing wasabi and talk the price up.

Rachel: What motivates you the most about living in Okutama and about wasabi farming? What is most meaningful to you?

David: It’s the sense of involvement, contributing to an activity that has deep meaning for the community. I should add that people here help each other in a very natural way, and exchange gifts as well. When crops are in surplus, we share. It turns out that everyone owes everyone else in the village more than they will ever be able to pay. It is a bond, not a burden.

Rachel: In your opinion, what is the biggest challenge facing wasabi growers in Japan?

David: Encouraging younger growers. At the moment, wasabi growing is like many traditional Japanese crafts, with elderly experts taking their knowledge to the grave. We need to streamline the market (online direct-to-consumer) so that working relatively small wasabi becomes financially viable for younger people. Right now, what growers get on the wholesale market is too low.

Rachel: What are some common misunderstandings about the wasabi plant and wasabi growing?

David: There are quite a few. First, wasabi and horseradish are totally different plants. Horseradish is a root, but the part of wasabi that we grind to eat is the stem. The plant is a brassica, like broccoli. Another elusive fact is that water is the most important factor in growing wasabi. The plant grows best in water that has spent weeks or months seeping through mountain rock strata, gathering dissolved minerals, then emerging as spring water at a temperature near 12 degrees Centigrade. In addition, this mineral-rich water should nourish the roots of the plant by flowing through rock and gravel to a depth of 15-20cm, providing a steady supply of oxygen as well as minerals. So, we should plow by hand to that depth. Oxygen keeps the plant vigorous and healthy, while minerals interact to impart flavor and pungency.

Rachel: What would be the biggest source of support that you would like to see more of?

David: Japanese citizens of urban Tokyo. This is not just about wasabi, but also about rural revitalization in general. We have no excuse because we are so close to one of the biggest and best markets in the world. The main themes are job migration (including telecommuting and new industries) and reforestation (replacing toxic sugi trees with native species of oak, cherry, maple, walnut, etc). The future of our region has to be a partnership between urban and rural.

Rachel: Related to the main themes for rural revitalization, what other local industries do you feel could have great potential for growth (besides agriculture) that would boost the local economy?

David: We see natural reforestation as the basis for the region’s future. There are many economic, environmental, and health reasons for eliminating most of the sugi trees, but we need a sustainable strategy. What we advocate is a new industry catering to DIY, cabinetmaking, woodcraft, and decorative timbers (regional natives include varieties of oak, cherry, maple, walnut, and keyaki). That means sustainably harvesting native trees and encouraging replacement strategies. Forest management science is missing. It is crucial to the sustainable management of future forest resources. I have had many conversations with Europeans who understand forestry as a respected profession. In Japan, forestry is regarded as labor. This must change. Identifying major business opportunities will change it. It’s a 300-year project, but to have such long legs it must be sustainable and profitable from the outset.

Rachel: 300 years is a long time to wait for change, but it has to start somewhere. Any advice or words of encouragement that you can share with others who might be thinking of following in your footsteps to move to Okutama?

David: Visit often. Get to know the locals. It’s worth it.

We can draw a contrast. Do you prefer an hour commute both ways to a location that is not actually specific for your work (especially if that work is mostly online)? Or; could you eliminate the commute and spend that time fishing or gardening, then work surrounded by beauty and be happier, more efficient, and more productive? For myself, I can say I am happier, healthier, and even wealthier by moving to a community in which I feel at home. 

Rachel: You have found an ideal setup! What has been the biggest change you have witnessed since you moved to Okutama about 5 years ago?

David: Several entrepreneurial enterprises (e.g. Mountscape, Jellyfish, and Sakura Hotels) have taken advantage of the region’s opportunities. Also, the Tokyo Metropolitan Government is showing more interest in promoting Okutama as the 2020 Olympics approaches.

Rachel: Personally, what has been your most memorable experience since your move to Okutama?

David: That’s a very hard question because something special happens on almost a daily basis. My work with mentally handicapped people at Tokyo Tamagakuen has provided many wonderful experiences. Overall, I think the feeling of being at home is the most rewarding.

Learn more about Tamagakuen: http://www.tama-gaku.com/tamagakuen/ 

Rachel: Let’s talk about your involvement with Tama Gakuen(多摩学園), a school that provides special needs education for the disabled. How did you start volunteering with this facility?

David: Tama Gakuen is more of a care institution than a school. I work there as a part-time employee, not as a volunteer. I became involved because I was curious. The model is based on Coco’s Farm and is quite unusual. The basic idea is that living close to nature and physical work is good for people with severe handicaps (adults with mental age averaging 3-4 years, very limited cognitive and social skills, plus associated physical problems). They can do basic tasks. The tasks relate mainly to agricultural production – shiitake, turmeric, and other vegetables. What Tama Gakuen accomplishes is a calming environment and routine that includes a sense of value and the continual building of relationships between residents (we call them students), carers, support staff, and part-timers such as myself.

Rachel: What do you see as the major opportunities in Japan? How about misperceptions?

David: My time in Japan is about half of the past four decades. The great advantage of Japan is social cohesion. Cooperation is always the first option, not second or third, or last. It’s not the only option, but it’s a very quiet first.

The one misperception that I encounter is that it must have been difficult for me to fit into a local village community. By contrast, the pull was irresistible.

Rachel: That is very interesting because I can imagine that most people would ask you about how being an Aussie has impacted your experience in a traditional Japanese industry and community. Would you say that your Australian background has affected your approach to wasabi farming and/or to propose innovative solutions?

David: As an Australian, I come from a multicultural background. In a mono-cultural society, I must be different to make a difference. As a journalist, I’m always the one with the questions. As a newcomer, everything is exciting for me. I see things in a different way from what local people are accustomed to. I question things that don’t make sense. Having said that, I have learned that nothing happens here just because it makes sense. Relationships are the key ingredient. Once relationships are formed, things that make sense can begin to happen.

Rachel: Speaking of relationships, who is your greatest inspiration and why?

David: My wife, without a doubt, and I’m bypassing some great inspirations in my life to say that. We very actively share most aspects of our lives; including wasabi-related projects, neighborhood responsibilities, our vegetable garden, and participating in local volunteer guide activities.

Rachel: It is a beautiful thing to have a partner to share life’s moments with. What is your next goal?

David: Priority one is my Japanese. Besides that, just about every night I share a toast with my wife. It goes: “Kampai! Another productive day! We gotta stop making things happen!” The next day the sun comes up and new things start to happen.

It’s the relationships.

Thank you, David!!

*~*~*~*

Final Thoughts

I learned a lot about wasabi growing and Okutama’s appeal from David’s unique and insightful perspective. However, there is a looming concern about the lack of interest in wasabi growing from younger generations. Existing wasabi growers are getting older, and modern Japan is faced with the reality that their expertise in cultivating this cherished plant will soon be lost. For example, one of Okutama’s wasabi growers with the largest production volume (over 50,000 plants per year) is already in his 80s and has no one to take over. Deeply knowledgeable about wasabi, this farmer ensures that every single bit of his plants is used somehow, but his fields may soon fall into disuse with his retirement, further exacerbating the shortage of wasabi. This problem of aging farmers is consistent with the current state of Japan’s agricultural industry as a whole, as I most recently experienced during my visit to Fukushima to learn about the prefecture’s food value chain (read about my visit to “Yoshinoya Farm Fukushima” and “Asahi Brewery Fukushima”).

Perhaps the biggest obstacle facing wasabi growers is marketing. At the moment, wasabi growing is very hard work, but the low wholesale prices that farmers get compensated for are nothing close to what consumers have to pay. Farmers are in financially vulnerable positions when they are unable to market directly to the end consumers. Unfortunately, there is not much information or public awareness about this matter. Perhaps applying “farm-to-table” and e-commerce business solutions would make the industry more lucrative by empowering wasabi growers with access to a bigger share of the market. Especially given that Okutama is so close to Tokyo, it might be the best place to start various initiatives that would boost the local industry. Making the wasabi industry more efficient would naturally also generate greater appeal and more opportunities for younger farmers to become wasabi growers. We can already see the beginning of the shift to online markets, as consumers take initiative to buy fresh wasabi at better prices by searching online and ordering directly from the farms. 

David’s passion to support the revitalization of Okutama is truly inspiring and opportune. His pursuit of new projects such as initiating a wasabi seedling program or starting an e-commerce website and ideas for boosting the region’s forestry industry reflects critical changes in a traditional community. We should all look forward to his future contributions!

*~*~*~*

Read more about David’s experiences at https://okutamaonline.com

Related Article:

The post Interview with Wasabi Cultivator David Hulme appeared first on Rachel Leng.

奥多摩への日帰り旅行で、ワサビ栽培者David Hulmeさん（在日在住オーストラリア人の元記者）と出会いました！彼は古い山葵谷を復元するように成長しているワサビの知識を拡大するために懸命に働いています。

Join me for a tour of Wasabi Growing in Okutama followed by an exclusive Interview with Wasabi Cultivator David Hulme!

Let’s learn about wasabi growing together! 

奥多摩で生育するわさびを見学するツアーを体験して、専門知識を教えてくれたDavidとの独占インタビューを行いました！ぜひご覧くださいね～
一緒にワサビについて学びましょう！

*~*~*

Some quick facts about wasabi:

ワサビについてのいくつかの簡単な知識：

#1

• Historically, much of Tokyo’s wasabi is sourced from Okutama, a region famous for wasabi production. There are historical records of Okutama wasabi being presented as gifts to shoguns and their families during the Samurai-era.
• 歴史的に、東京のわさびの多くは、わさび産地で有名な奥多摩から供給されています。侍の時代、将軍とその家族献上される奥多摩わさびの記録があります。

#2

• Major production areas in Japan are currently in the rural mountainsides of Shizuoka, Nagano, Akita and Iwate prefectures.
• 現在、日本の主要生産地域は、静岡、長野、秋田、岩手県の農村山地にあります。

#3

• Wasabi (ワサビ or わさび (山葵, previously 和佐比)) is in short supply and it is difficult for many growers to meet the demand of consumers. In fact, the price per kilo is now upwards of $200 and increasing by up to 10% per year as demand continues to outstrip supply.
• ワサビ(山葵, 又は和佐比)は供給が不足しており、多くの生産者が消費者の需要を満たすことは困難です。 実際、1キロ当たりの価格は現在2万円以上上昇し、需要が供給を上回っているため価格が毎年10％ずつ上昇しています。

#4

• Due to its high cost, only high-end restaurants use fresh wasabi. A common substitute (the “wasabi” we commonly see in a tube) is a mixture of horseradish, mustard, starch, and green food coloring or spinach powder. In Japan, horseradish is referred to as seiyō wasabi (西洋わさび or “western wasabi”).
• 高価なため、新鮮なワサビを使用するのは高級レストランだけです。 一般的な代用品（私たちがチューブでよく見かける「わさび」）は、西洋ワサビ、マスタード、デンプン、および緑色の食用着色剤またはほうれん草の粉の混合物です。

#5

• Wasabi are grown on wasabida （山葵谷、or “wasabi patches”） often along stream beds in mountainous river valleys in Japan.
• わさびは、日本の山間部の渓谷の流域に沿って、しばしば「山葵谷」で栽培されます。

*~*~*

Hiking to the Wasabi Patch

The wasabi plant grows naturally along stream beds in mountain river valleys in Japan. To reach the wasabi patch, you must first hike up the mountain. Tough work for wasabi growers tending to their patches!

日本の山脈の渓流に沿って自然に生長するワサビがあります。 山葵谷に到達するには、最初に山を登るのが必要ですよ！ ワサビ栽培者が山葵谷を自然に見つけるのは結構大変ですね！

Wasabi plants are particularly difficult to cultivate. They are only found alongside rivers in mountainous terrains, using the water from the mountain streams. In addition, wasabi plants typically will not grow well if the water or air temperatures fluctuate too much (not below 8 degrees or above 20 degrees). As the water temperature in Okutama does not change much throughout the year, it is an ideal location to grow wasabi.

ワサビの栽培はとても困難です。山岳地帯の水を使って、山岳地帯の川沿いにのみ育ちます。 さらに、水や空気の温度があまりにも変動すると（8度以下または20度以上ではない場合）、わさび植物はよく成長しません。 奥多摩の水温は毎年あまり変わらず、ワサビを栽培するのに理想的な場所です。

Various kinds of mushrooms are grown on dead logs up in the mountains near the wasabida.

山葵谷の近くの山々では、老木の上で様々な種類のキノコを栽培しています。

*~*~*

Arriving in the wasabi patch!

The roots of the wasabi plant need about a foot of good, though not too hard-packed, gravel and rocks and constant access to flowing water. The best water is spring water – the nutrients and minerals help the plants grow strong stems and have a direct impact on the wasabi flavor.

ワサビの根を、約1フィート伸ばすには良質な土壌と毎日水を流れていることが必要です。 最高の水は湧水です – 栄養素とミネラルは植物が強い茎をつくるのを助け、ワサビの風味に直接影響します。

There are many different species of the wasabi plant and they fetch different prices! The two main cultivars in the marketplace are E. japonicum ‘Daruma’ and ‘Mazuma.’

ワサビは植物の多くの異なる種類があり、それぞれに異なる価格で売られます！ 市場の2つの主な品種は「ダルマ種」と 「マズマ種」です。

David’s wasabida has a history of over 100 years old. It was originally built by charcoal makers up in the mountains! David rents his wasabida from the land owner at only 3,000 yen (about USD$30) a year and grows about 1000 wasabi plants! I was surprised that the rental prices are so reasonable!

Davidの山葵谷は100年以上の歴史を持っています。 それはもともと炭の製造業者によって山に造られました！ ダビデは土地所有者から山葵谷を年間3000円で借りて、約1000のワサビを栽培しています！賃貸価格がとても安価妥当であることに驚いきました！

*~*~*

Checking out the water source for David’s wasabi patch!

山葵谷のための水源を見に行きました！

Similar to making good tofu and sake, it is quality water that is key to growing good wasabi! Dissolved minerals in water that has seeped through the mountains are what give flavor and pungency to wasabi, and as a result many growers will locate their wasabida near favorably tasting water sources.

良い豆腐と日本酒を作っているのと同じように、良いわさびを栽培する上で最も重要なのは高品質の水です！山々に浸透した水に溶けたミネラルは、ワサビに味と辛味を与えるものであり、その結果、多くの栽培者が山葵谷を水源の近くに好んで配置します。

*~*~*

Digging out wasabi plants

A wasabi plant generally takes about 18 months of careful cultivation to reach maturity (planted in April and harvested in October the year after). Growers must be very careful though because if the plant gets damaged, deprived of water or smothered by silt then the stem will begin decaying and turn black.

わさびの栽培には、一般的に約18カ月間の期間が必要です（4月に植えられ、次の年の10月に収穫されます）。 植物が傷ついたり、水分を奪われたり、沈泥物に覆われたりすると、茎が腐敗して黒くなってしまうので、栽培者は非常に注意する必要があります。

David uses the kazusa, a curved, slim, and sharp Japanese farmer’s hoe, to tend to his wasabida. The long steel tooth is designed for working riverbed stones.

彼は「カズサ」と呼ばれる湾曲した、スリムで鋭い日本の農家の鍬を使用して、育てています。 ロングスチールの先端は川床の石を加工するために設計されています。

Watching David tend to his wasabi patch. There are 3 ways to grow wasabi – from seedling, sprout, and cloning. David and his wife attend the local wasabi juku (ワサビ塾, a kind of “cram school for wasabi growing”) where they engage in 15 or so field trips over an 18 month period (the full growing cycle of wasabi) learning how to cultivate wasabi from planting, to growing, and harvesting, together with other wasabi growers in Okutama!

わさびを栽培する3つの方法があります：苗木、芽吹き、および増殖。 Davidと奥さんは奥多摩の他のワサビ栽培者とともに、ワサビの栽培方法を学ぶのために18ヵ月を費やしている地元の「ワサビ塾」に通っています ！

Eventually, David will use his kazusa to dig out several wasabi plants with lush, green leaves. We then helped with cutting off the leaves and cleaning the stems with knives made of deer antler, finally washing them off in the river water. Apparently, the leaves of the wasabi plant are also edible!

「カズサ」を使って、豊かに育ったいくつかのワサビを掘り起こします。 その後、鹿の角で作られたナイフで葉を切り、茎を掃除し、最後に川の水で洗い流しました。 どうやら、ワサビの葉も食べられるらしいよ！

*~*~*

Tasting fresh wasabi plants!

It is a common misperception that we eat the root of the wasabi. However, it is actually the stem that we grind and eat! In this way, wasabi is actually more similar to cabbages and broccoli than they are to ginger or other root vegetables.

私達が「わさびの根を食べる」と言われているのは誤いです。 しかし、実際に根ではなく粉砕されて食べられるのは茎です！ このように、ワサビはショウガや他の根の野菜よりキャベツやブロッコリーの方に似ています。

Real wasabi is not a green paste from a plastic package – it is the stem of the wasabi plant and tastes best when consumed soon after grinding! Specifically, freshly ground wasabi is the most flavorful around 1~3 minutes after grinding. After 3 minutes, the natural flavor begins to dissipate, and it is essentially gone after 15 minutes.

本物のワサビは、プラスチックに入った緑色のペーストではありません。ワサビの本物の味は茎にあり、すりおろした直後に食べるのが最高の味になります！ 具体的には、すりおろした1分後が最も美味しいです。3分後は、自然の香りが消え始め、そして１５分後にはほとんど消えちゃいます。

The best grinders for wasabi have a surface made of shark skin. The fresh wasabi served right after grinding has a refreshing sweetness and clean heat on the palate! 

わさびのための最良のおろし器は、サメの皮で作られたものです。すりおろし直後の新鮮なワサビは爽やかな甘さと清潔な辛さがあります。

We got to share in some freshly ground wasabi with roast beef up in the mountains! Roast beef and freshly ground wasabi are a perfect combination.

ローストビーフと新鮮なワサビは完璧な組み合わせです。

*~*~*

Final Thoughts || 最後の一言

I learned a lot about wasabi growing and Okutama’s appeal from David’s unique and insightful perspective. However, there is a looming concern about the lack of interest in wasabi growing from younger generations. Existing wasabi growers are getting older, and modern Japan is faced with the reality that their expertise in cultivating this cherished plant will soon be lost. For example, one of Okutama’s wasabi growers with the largest production volume (over 50,000 plants per year) is already in his 80s and has no one to take over. Deeply knowledgeable about wasabi, this farmer ensures that every single bit of his plants is used somehow, but his fields may soon fall into disuse with his retirement, further exacerbating the shortage of wasabi. This problem of aging farmers is consistent with the current state of Japan’s agricultural industry as a whole, as I most recently experienced during my visit to Fukushima to learn about the prefecture’s food value chain (read about my visit to “Yoshinoya Farm Fukushima” and “Asahi Brewery Fukushima”).

私は本当にDavidのユニークで洞察力のある視点から奥多摩の魅力について多くのことを学びました。しかし、今後若い世代がワサビに対する関心のないことを懸念しています。現存するワサビ栽培者は年を取っており、現在日本は、この大切な植物を栽培する後継者が少ないという現実に直面しています。例えば、奥多摩の最大生産量（年間5万株以上）のワサビ生産者の一人は、すでに80代に入っておりますが、引き継ぐ人はいません。寂しいですね…ワサビについて深く知っているこの農夫は、そろそろ引退するはずですが、山葵谷は使用できなくなる可能性が多くて、ワサビの不足をさらに悪化させると思います。このような高齢化農家の問題は、日本の農業産業全体の状況と同じかもしれません。私が日本の農業を知るために最近福島県を訪問した時、同じ社会問題に遭遇しました（「吉野家ファーム福島」と「アサヒビール福島」への私の訪問についてご覧ください）。

Perhaps the biggest obstacle facing wasabi growers is marketing. At the moment, wasabi growing is very hard work, but the low wholesale prices that farmers get compensated are nothing close to what consumers have to pay. Farmers are in financially vulnerable positions when they are unable to market directly to the end consumers. Unfortunately, there is not much information or public awareness about this matter. Perhaps applying “farm-to-table” and e-commerce business solutions would make the industry more lucrative by empowering wasabi growers with access to a bigger share of the market. Especially given that Okutama is so close to Tokyo, it might be the best place to start various initiatives that would boost the local industry. Making the wasabi industry more efficient would naturally also generate greater appeal and more opportunities for younger farmers to become wasabi growers. We can already see the beginning of the shift to online markets, as consumers take initiatives to buy fresh wasabi at better prices by searching online and ordering directly from the farms. 

私から考えると、ワサビ生産者が直面する最大の障害はマーケティングの問題だと思います。 現時点で、ワサビの栽培は非常に難しい作業ですが、農家が補償する低い卸売価格は、消費者が支払うものに近いものではありません。 農家は、最終消費者に直接販売することができない場合、財政的に脆弱な立場にあると思います。 残念ながら、この問題についての情報や一般の認識はあまりないかもしれません。 多分、「農場間」およびE-Commerceのビジネスソリューションを適用することで、ワサビ生産者が市場のより大きなシェアを得ることができるようになり、業界がより収益を上げることになるでしょう。 特に、奥多摩は東京の中心に近いので、地場産業を活性化する様々な取り組みを始めることが最適かもしれない。 ワサビ産業をより効率的にすることは、当然のことながら、より若い農家がワサビ生産者になるためのより大きな魅力とより多くの機会を生み出すでしょう。

David’s passion to support the revitalization of Okutama is truly inspiring and opportune. Be sure to read his interview to hear from his insights! His pursuit of new projects such as initiating a wasabi seedling program or starting an e-commerce website and ideas for boosting the region’s forestry industry reflects critical changes in a traditional community. We should all look forward to his future contributions!

そういうわけで、Davidが奥多摩の活性化をサポートするための情熱は本当に勇気づけられて、そして今はチャンスの時です。 彼の考えを知るためにインタビューを必ず読んでくださいね～！ ワサビ苗木プログラムの開始やEコマースウェブサイトの開設、地域の林業産業の向上のためのアイデアのような様々な新しいプロジェクトの追求は、伝統的なコミュニティにおける重大な変化を反映しています。将来を楽しみにしています！

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Read more about David’s experiences at

https://okutamaonline.com

Related Article:

The post Wasabi Growing in Okutama <br> 奥多摩のワサビ appeared first on Rachel Leng.